Part 2: Installing FTS 'Ultimate' Rear Suspension
Installation of the Full-Traction Suspension 4” Ultimate package includes a
complete revamp of the TJ’s rear suspension. Steps involved also apply to rebuilding the stock suspension or the
replacement of an OE axle assembly. Whether you intend to lift a TJ Wrangler, repair rear suspension damage or
replace worn components, this section provides the step-by-step procedures and insights for successful rear
Illus. 74: Front suspension
complete, the rear suspension work begins. Position jack stands beneath the axle housing. This right side shock
absorber is under pressure. Lower the axle far enough to just unload the shock pressure. Unbolt the shock absorber.
The shocks serve as the limiters for rear suspension drop. Once the shock is loose, the axle can be lowered further
to release spring tension.
Illus. 75: Repeat the steps to
remove the left shock absorber. Keep in mind that the shock absorber is under pressure. The shock is also the
limiter for axle drop. Frame stands and floor jacks are another way to unload the shock absorber pressure. I use a
chassis hoist to lift the vehicle and adjustable tripod stands to support and lower the axle
Note: If you do not have a
vehicle hoist and tripod stands, you can simulate this procedure. Support the frame with four floor jack stands.
Raise and lower the axle housings with a pair of quality hydraulic floor jacks placed carefully beneath the axle
housing. Always use caution around coil springs!
Illus. 76: Support the axle
housing to permit loosening of the track bar. Here, OE hardware comes loose at the axle bracket for the track bar.
Bolt head is a Torx size. Nut has a weld-on handle. Use the correct tools to detach
Illus. 77: Frame attachment
bracket for the rear track bar is accessible. Loosen the bolt and nut here. Removal of the bolt will free the track
bar. The FTS three-link rear suspension system does not use a track bar. If you have stock suspension or want to
replace the rear track bar, the bar can be removed and installed in this manner. Once you remove this hardware, the
track bar will slide loose.
Illus. 78: You can now carefully
lower the axle housing. Watch the brake hose and cables. Do not stretch or stress parts. Lower the axle enough to
unload the coil spring tension. Keep the axle housing stable to avoid dislodging the springs under
Beware: A coil spring stores considerable energy and can
cause severe bodily injury if the force is not properly contained. Do not allow loaded springs to come loose.
When in doubt, use coil spring compressors to control spring length and contain the coil springs'
Illus. 79: Without load on the
track bar, the bar can be slid from its brackets. Remove the track bar completely. If track bar replacement were
your goal, you could now install the new bar. On this innovative three-link suspension conversion, the FTS design
and components eliminate the need for a track bar.
Illus. 80: Continue to unload the
springs. Do so evenly. Keep the axle level as you release spring tension. At axle drop with the track bar out and
the shock absorbers removed, the springs will be loose in their seats. There should be no need for a spring
compressor here although that is always an option.
Notes: Suspension Lifts and Brake Safety
Wrangler owners personalize their vehicles in many ways. Choices in recovery
equipment, stowage racks, suspension products, tires, wheels and chassis components make these vehicles
unique. For this reason, suspension system and lift kit installations require close attention to details. You
will find notes and footnotes in the manufacturer's installation instructions. There are also some general
concerns that you should always consider. Among these concerns are brake hoses and brake
Changes to the chassis, wheel/tire size changes and other modifications may affect brake
components. The goal is to always maintain a safe brake system, consistent with original equipment engineering
standards. Consider these points when installing a suspension lift kit or system:
*Whenever you install a lift kit of any kind, always check for sufficient brake hose clearance.
Due to the varieties of springs, sway bar disconnects, axle layouts, wheel/tire combinations and chassis
differences over model years, the brake hose lengths may need changing.
*Check brake hose length with the axle in full drop position. If you have sway bar disconnects,
unhook disconnect links to increase drop. Allow for axle flex and articulation, which will increase the distance
between the brake calipers or axle and the frame brake pipes. Turn the front wheels full left-to-right and observe
the brake hose clearance.
*If the hoses are stressed or stretching to any degree, you need to install longer brake hoses.
Braided steel hoses are available. OEM replacement hoses of similar design and fittings may be available through a
local brake parts supplier or auto parts retailer. Savvy parts counter staff can often find longer length, OEM
quality hoses of the same design and fittings as your Wrangler's hoses.
*When installing longer hoses, make sure that they do not interfere with moving parts as
the axle moves through its range of travel. Check the hoses at full drop. Take into consideration the full upward
travel of the axles. Turn the front wheels left and right to extremes, observing hose clearance throughout the
wheel turns. Be certain that the hoses will not rub or chafe against chassis parts, wheels/tires or steering
*Tighten the brake fittings properly to avoid fluid leaks. Fabricate brackets, if
necessary, to position and support hoses out of harm's way. Always bleed the brake system after installing hoses.
Make sure the front and rear brakes work properly!
Brakes are a
critical safety concern. When installing a lift of any kind, check for clearance and safe routing of brake
hoses and brake lines at the front and rear axles, along the frame and to each brake cylinder and
caliper—before driving your vehicle. Sometimes, the fix is as simple as installing the brake line drop
brackets supplied with a suspension package. In other cases, new and longer brake hoses may be necessary. If
you relocate or move any brake pipes, be certain that they route safely, away from rough edges or
interference with other chassis parts. Visualize the movement and ways that parts may become damaged. Protect
your Jeep’s brake system!
Illus. 81: Stock spring lifts from
its perch. The axle housing is low enough for springs to actually rotate by hand. There is only slight pressure
here. This is the right side rear spring.
Illus. 82: Axle in correct
position at drop, the left spring should also rotate freely and lift from its perch. If there is still tension on
the spring, look for a cause: There is something
preventing the axle from dropping far enough. The axle
housing should still be supported by the upper and lower link arms at this stage.
Illus. 83: There is a rear sway
bar on the TJ Wrangler. The bar is very easy to identify and remove. Here, I loosen the sway bar support bracket at
the right side of the axle housing. Note the hardware and its position for reassembly. The bracket is on the axle
Illus. 84: The left side of the
axle also has a support bracket for the sway bar. This matches the right side. The bar is much smaller in diameter
than the front stabilizer bar. FTS reuses the OE sway bar. Follow this procedure for removing and replacing the
Illus. 85: The sway bar links fit
to the frame. These links are durable, flexible material; however, they can break after years of severe use or from
trail abuse. Unbolt the links from their frame mounting points. There is a link at each end of the sway bar. Links
use special hardware, including a handle nut and bolt. Always replace this hardware with like kind. Use Loctite 242
for added protection.
Illus. 86: The link frame nuts and
bar are now loose. You can lift the bar from the chassis. Inspect, repair and replace components as necessary.
Reinstall these parts using Loctite 242 on threads. Set torque to specification.
Illus. 87: Emergency brake cables,
brake hose, wire looms and a bracket attach at the upper control arm on the left side. To remove the left upper
control/link arm, first loosen the bracket supporting these components. If you are replacing the arm, note the
positions of these attachments. Once free of attachments, the arm can be removed.
Illus. 88: Right side upper arm
has an E-brake cable support bracket. Loosen the bracket from the control arm. Once the bracket is loose, you can
unbolt the control arm at the axle and frame. Continue to carefully support the axle housing as you loosen the
control arms. Prevent the axle housing from rotating.
Illus. 89: Here, the left upper
control arm is loosened. The axle must be secure on stands as this arm comes loose. There should be no excess
pressure on the axle assembly at this stage. With both upper arms loose, the axle housing will rest on the stands
with only the lower arms and driveline keeping components in position. At this stage, I keep loosened bolts in the
left upper arm to prevent the housing from rotating.
Illus. 90: Three stands support
the axle and keep it from rotating. I have strapped the pinion nose to a weighted tripod stand. Once the axle
assembly is clearly stable, I remove the remaining hardware from the upper control arms and lift the arms out of
the way. Note that the lower control arms are still securely in place.
Illus. 91: To determine the needed
degree of pinion/axle housing rotation for the lift suspension, I now remove the center skid plate and driveline.
The exhaust system is also more accessible with the skid plate out of the way. A fourth tripod stand fits beneath
the transmission at this stage. The axle housing, pinion nose of the housing and the transmission/transfer case are
Illus. 92: The Rubicon Edition has
a factory air compressor mounted to the skid plate. This compressor powers the air locker differentials. When
removing the skid plate, first detach the air compressor and wire tie the assembly aside.
Illus. 93: Remove the four
transmission mount nuts below the skid plate. With the transmission supported securely, loosen the frame-to-skid
plate attachment bolts at the frame rails while a helper or a transmission jack supports the skid plate. Lower the
skid plate safely out of the way.
Illus. 94: Skid plate removed, the
transmission, transfer case, driveline and exhaust system are now exposed. The driveline and cat-back exhaust
system will be removed at this point. FTS 4” Ultimate suspension system requires a CV-type rear driveline and
exhaust system changes.
Illus. 95: The exhaust system
disconnects just after the catalytic converter. This makes the muffler and tailpipe part of a unit exhaust system.
FTS offers a performance muffler and tailpipe to replace this section of the exhaust. For this installation, a
local muffler shop can fabricate a muffler/tailpipe that works with the re-vamped FTS rear suspension system.
(Check with FTS for available exhaust components.)
Illus. 96: To remove the exhaust
system, loosen the hangers and support brackets. This is a modular exhaust system and easy to disassemble. With air
tools, it will take only minutes to remove the muffler/tail pipe assembly.
Illus. 97: Exhaust system section
on the floor, these pieces will not be refitted with the FTS suspension system. The tailpipe and muffler shape will
differ with the three-link rear suspension in place. Removal of the exhaust system makes the axle and suspension
Illus. 98: I now loosen the right
upper control arm. Factory handle nuts are commonly used to speed assembly and disassembly. The arms come loose
readily. Keep track of the hardware, its location and parts positioning.
Illus. 99: Here the left upper arm
hardware comes loose. The arm is now loose of the bracket and also free of the attachments. At this point, the two
lower arms are still in place and aligning the axle housing.
Illus. 100: Confirm that the axle
is stable and supported before removing the lower control arms. Here, with shock absorbers, coil springs, upper
arms, sway bar and exhaust components removed, the right side view is uncluttered. The lower control arm is
accessible. Removing the lower control arms and driveline will detach the axle housing.
Illus. 101: I remove the lower
control arm forward bolt. The link arm is now loose and free of the bracket. Keep the axle housing from rotating or
Illus. 102: Loosen the rear
hardware on the lower control arm. The arm is now free, and the axle housing rides on the tripod stands. Opposite
side lower control arm still provides some support. The driveline and support stands are in place. You can now
repeat these steps at the left lower control arm, freeing the axle assembly from the suspension and frame
attachments. Keep the axle stable and protect the hoses, cables, electrical attachments and
Illus. 103: The next step is
installation of the support brace for the V-link suspension. This rugged bracket is precisely shaped to support the
innovative three-link suspension system. Brace picks up the OE upper axle control arm bracket mounts, the
differential cover bolts and the sway bar mounting point. Here, the bracket and sway bar attach to the OE sway bar
mount points. Use Loctite 242 on bolt and nut threads and torque to specification.
Illus. 104: When you reuse OE
hardware or add new Grade 8 hardware, always apply Loctite 242 to bolt threads. Use a torque wrench to bring
hardware to final torque settings. This brace fits precisely and establishes the pivot point for the V-link brace.
The brace pivots in the OE frame mount points for the original upper link arms. Three-link suspension provides
exceptional axle articulation and eliminates the inherent binding of the OE four-link, hard bushing link
Illus. 105: The three-link support
brace is now in place. OE sway bar fits in its original location. Sway bar links will be replaced. FTS provides new
steel links. The three-link support brace provides the mount point for the heavy-duty FTS Heim
Illus. 106: Moly or silicone
grease helps prevent bind of urethane bushings. Here, I coat the steel inner sleeve with high-moly content grease.
Critical FTS joints have grease fittings. Once the entire system is installed, I will lube each of the grease
fittings with a grease gun. My grease of choice will be Texaco Starplex II, highly resistance to heat, pounding and
Illus. 107: This is the V-link. It
has grease fittings for the urethane bushings. There is a threaded tube section for the Heim joint. A pinch bolt
secures the Heim joint once the joint threads into the correct position. These are high strength components with an
important task: This brace provides axle articulation at the Heim joint while guiding up-and-down axle movement
from the brace’s end bushings.
Illus. 108: The V-link’s Heim
joint rides in these custom steel bushings. The large Grade 8 bolt runs into a self-locking steel nut welded to the
differential housing support brace. These are high end components built to meet or exceed OE quality and longevity.
Moving, wear components are serviceable if necessary—just like OE parts.
Illus. 109: Heim fits into the
V-link threads to a point that aligns the axle housing with the proper wheelbase, correct tire/wheel positions in
the wheel wells and the desired pinion angle. Heim threaded properly, the pinch bolt can be tightened. This secures
the threaded section by compressing the tube at the split seam. Once secured with the joint on a level plane, the
assembly can be fitted with the custom bushings and installed in the brace. Loctite 242 and proper torque will
secure this large bolt.
Illus. 110: V-link hardware
attaches the V-link outer brace pivots at the OE upper link arm frame brackets. The sophistication of this package
and its use of OE attachment points make this a “suspension system” rather than a simple lift kit. Consider the
integrity of this package when selecting a lift or suspension system.
Illus. 111: The differential cover
bolt holes provide additional support for this bolt-on package. Here, I have aligned and drilled the holes for the
Dana 44 plate. (A Dana 35 plate is also provided in the package.) Bolts align the two-piece brace. I will flip
these bolts over before installing the brace between the V-link support bracket and the differential cover bolt
Illus. 112: Bolts oriented for
clearance, the bracket is in place. The differential cover bolts pick up the bracket and differential cover. I
reinstall the OE electrical connector with a slight modification to its mounting bracket. The forward section of
the support bracket bears the nut for the Heim joint bolt.
Illus. 113: Heim joint bolt fits
through the top of the support brace then a spacer bushing, the Heim center, through another spacer bushing, the
lower rail of the support brace and into the nut that is part of the differential brace. The nut is welded to the
brace plate and is of Grade 8 top-lock type. This is a sturdy mounting system and pivot point designed for severe
Illus. 114: Torqued to
specification, this assembly is a precise fit and provides the movement and alignment required. Stamina of such a
joint is exceptional. I can fit my industrial strength torque wrench above the support brace to torque this bolt to
specification. Heim-type joints were originally used in aircraft and precision machine
Illus. 115: Hardware for outer
V-link pivots can be torqued with a ½-inch beam bar torque wrench. I use Loctite 242 on all thread applications and
torque the hardware to specification. Always re-check hardware torque after suspension has been cycled in
Illus. 116: Full-Traction
Suspension provides skid plate drop spacers that have a unique cup and beveled washer design. These spacers will
center up properly and torque to specification without risk of loosening. I install split ring lock washers of
Grade 8 rating to match the Grade 8 bolts and flat washers provided with the hardware kit. Use Loctite 242 for
additional insurance. The skid plate supports the transmission/transfer case, a big task to
Note—These FTS spacers have been designed to work with skid plates that have recessed bolt
pockets. All YJs and first-generation TJ models use special bolts with acorn seats. On such applications, the
two-piece FTS spacers will sandwich the dished recess in the skid plate. Shown here is the later TJ application
that uses a flat skid plate bolt surface. Both applications use the FTS Grade 8 bolts and washers supplied with the
Illus. 117: Loctite 242 on
threads, the transmission/transfer case mount nuts now go back in place. Torque these nuts to
Illus. 118: Rear axle bump stops
also must be dropped when installing a lift. Here, the OE bump stop comes loose and exposes the bolt for the bump
stop’s cup mount. Remove the bump stop cup. The new spacer fits between the cup and the upper coil spring
Illus. 119: Use Loctite 242 on the
new, longer bolt. Place the spacer between the cup and spring seat. Secure the bolt and torque it to specification.
This dropped stop will prevent the suspension from hyper-compressing and damaging the shock absorbers, driveline
and other components.
Illus. 120: With the rubber stop
back in place, the new coil spring can be fitted. If the suspension drops enough as shown here, the spring can be
worked into position by hand. These rear springs do not have a clamp or lock plate. They stay in place by spring
tension and vehicle weight. Front springs have a stop edge at the lower spring seat to catch the spring end and
prevent the spring from rotating. Rear springs do not have a stop edge.
Illus. 121: Left side spring fits
into place without trouble. Axle housing sets low enough to allow easy fitment of the coil springs. Once springs
are both in place, the shock absorber installation will limit the axle drop and prevent the springs from dislodging
Illus. 122: Lower link arm from
Full-Traction Suspension (upper) is clearly stouter than the OE link arm (bottom). This suspension system is built
for off-pavement punishment. The arm will be adjusted to a slightly longer bolt-to-bolt fit than the OE link. These
lower link arms control the pinion angle. I will adjust each arm evenly and set the pinion
Illus. 123: Since pinion angle is
crucial, I will replace the rear driveline before setting up the lower link arms. This is a Rubicon Edition rear
driveline. A stout, non-CV type unit, the Rubicon shaft does not have the slip yoke at the front. Each joint is a
single Cardan with a splined slip-coupler in the mid-shaft section. Joints are 1330 Spicer type. I will replace
this driveline with a heavy-duty CV unit that uses 1330 joints.
Illus. 124: The U-joint is
strapped to the pinion yoke. These bolts have smaller heads that are best handled with a six-point socket. On the
Rubicon 1330 application, I can use a 3/8”-drive socket and air ratchet. Air impact tools work nicely in these
applications. For joints with less maneuvering room, an extension with ¼-inch drive ratchet and six-point socket
will usually work.
Illus. 125: The Rubicon rear
driveline uses a companion flange/damper to drive the U-joint flange. The U-joint flange unbolts from the companion
flange. This provides access to the transfer case’s output shaft nut. Be prepared to support this drive shaft as it
comes loose. Do not let the shaft hang, as joint damage can result.
Illus. 126: TJ applications use a
damper at the output shaft, whether or not there is a slip-yoke driveline or a companion flange. The damper helps
reduce vibration. In applications where an aftermarket CV-type driveline replaces the stock drive shaft, the damper
is removed. Here, I loosen the companion flange/output shaft nut with a six-point impact socket and air
Illus. 127: A harmonic balancer
puller is the tool of choice for removing the damper. Splines and shaft are straight, not tapered, so the force
required is minimal. This damper comes loose readily. Only a slight amount of pulling effort, and the damper slides
Illus. 128: Damper loose, the
splined shaft is visible. The Rubicon models use the NV241 transfer case with a short tailhousing. This is similar
to the “slip-yoke eliminator” package used as a retrofit on the NP/NV231 transfer cases. A shorter tailhousing and
output length allows for a longer rear driveshaft. On the factory lifted Rubicon, the longer driveline is desirable
as a means for reducing the steeper driveline slope angle.
Note: Non-Rubicon models
with the NP/NV231 transfer case will require a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) and CV rear driveline conversion. I cover
the Advance Adapters SYE installation elsewhere in the Jeep YJ and TJ Wrangler 'Workshop' section at
this 4WD Mechanix
Illus. 129: Here, the new CV
driveline (bottom) is complete with the front yoke that will attach to the NV241 output shaft. Top shaft is the OE
assembly with single Cardan type joints at each end and a damper. The new CV driveline, custom built by Powertrain
Industries, features heavy-duty 1330 joints, thick tubing and a heavy-duty spline coupler. This is a rugged, high
performance driveline built for severe service.
Illus. 130: I coat the
splines and front mating surface of the new yoke with Super 300 sealant. This will keep fluid from wicking out of
the splines. The seal is virtually new, as this Rubicon has only 6,000 miles on the odometer. There is no need to
replace the seal. I grease the seal lip recess with chassis lube and slide the yoke carefully into
Illus. 131: A flange type nut is
OE equipment. When a self-locking pinion or output
nut is removed, it should be replaced with a new nut of like kind. I use Loctite 242 as both a sealant and thread locking agent. Run the nut onto the shaft
and seat the yoke.
Illus. 132: A rag protects the
yoke from nicking as I hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench. Do not apply force at the U-joint saddles or dust deflector. Hold the yoke securely below the machined saddles. I use a 0-250 ft-lb torque wrench to
bring the nut to torque specification. A special flange wrench is available to hold the yoke while setting
Illus. 133: Here, with new rear
straps and bolts torqued to specification and the joint secured in its saddles, the shaft is in place. The CV
flange-to-front yoke bolts are Grade 8. I coat threads with Loctite 242 to assure that they will stay tight. Torque
the hardware to specification. At the front bolts, I use a box wrench or box-end crow’s foot socket. Make certain
bolts are torqued to specification. Powertrain Industries supplies these rugged driveline assemblies to
Illus. 134: I temporarily install
the lower arms, with hardware finger tight, to keep the axle in alignment. Install the rear shock absorbers, using
floor jacks or adjustable stands to position the axle height. Jacks will compress the springs and allow for easier
shock installation. Use Loctite 242 on threads, and torque all hardware. The shocks serve as axle drop limiters.
Once the shock absorbers are safely bolted into place, the springs will be loaded and stay securely in
place. Always use caution around loaded coil
Illus. 135: Setting adjustable
tripod stands beneath the axle housing once more, I carefully adjust the lower link arm lengths to establish the
correct pinion angle. Note that the swivel joint is toward the axle end with the urethane bushing facing forward
and upward. The offset of the arm’s tube faces downward. Pinion angle should be checked with the rear
axle supporting the vehicle’s weight.
Note: When setting the
rear pinion angle or front axle caster, I place stands under the front and rear axles. The full vehicle weight is
supported on the stands to simulate static or “curb” height.
Illus. 136: Once the pinion angle
is right and the axle housing checks plumb with the springs and its chassis/frame alignment, I install the new
hardware with Loctite 242. Torque the bolts and nuts to specification. Nuts supplied are Grade 8 top-lock
Illus. 137: This end fits upward,
with the tube offset to the lower side of the arm. I match the left and right arm lengths, continually noting the
pinion angle. This is the same as adjusting front axle caster on a beam axle. The aim here is an axle that moves
through its travel arc with axle/frame alignment similar to the OE axle positions. Once aligned with the frame and
square, the axle's final adjustment is pinion angle.
Caution—As the suspension compresses on link-and-coil
systems, the front axle may move forward and the rear axle may move rearward, essentially increasing the
vehicle’s wheelbase length. Be aware of this phenomenon. Cycle the suspension before installing the coil
springs. With the link arms in place, you can determine the changes that will take place by moving (cycling)
each of the axle housings over its range of suspension travel. Adjust the suspension accordingly, taking rear
pinion angle, front axle caster angle and the driveline lengths into account. On extreme applications, body
modifications may be necessary to prevent tire interference as the wheelbase elongates. Some aftermarket
suspension packages and tire sizes require more wheel well clearance and additional driveline spline coupler
length to compensate for the wheelbase changes.
Illus. 138: With the axle
supporting the rear vehicle weight atop the tripod stands, I check the driveline pinion angle. A protractor
provides accurate measurements. (There is also an inclinometer specifically used for this task.) At this stage, the
Jeep sets with its weight on four stands, two under each axle to simulate the on-the-ground axle positions. I
strive for 1.5 to 2-degrees of rear U-joint angle on this CV-type driveline.
Illus. 139: The axle should be
square with the frame, aligned for wheelbase and wheel travel, with the correct pinion angle at the driveline. It
may be necessary to go back and forth between the lower link arm adjustments to square the axle and establish
correct pinion angle. Torque the hardware and jam nuts to specification once link arm length is correct and the arm
ends are centered. Although busier than OE or fixed-length aftermarket arms, these adjustable arms provide a degree
of suspension and chassis tuning that is not possible with fixed-length link arms. Alignment accuracy can be
Illus. 140: This is the right
lower link arm in its final adjustment mode. On a four-wheel alignment rack, the square and thrust angle of the
axles will be checked and adjusted if necessary. Full-Traction Suspension provides baseline link arm length
adjustments to help installers get the chassis ready for the alignment rack check and final
Note—Having run the alignment rack at a truck dealership years ago, I
can bring a chassis very close to specification without
sophisticated alignment equipment. I do discuss 'DIY' alignment in an article available at this 4WD Mechanix
Magazine website. Click here to access that Jeep
wheel alignment article—get a better understanding of alignment needs and affordable
'Dropped Skid Plate'
Caution: On the Full-Traction
Suspension 4” Ultimate and other aftermarket systems that lower the transfer case/transmission at the skid plate,
adjustment of the transfer case shift linkage may be necessary. A shift linkage relocation bracket and hardware
come with the FTS package and may be required. Check transfer case shifting and engagement. Be sure that linkage
travel and body clearance are adequate. Take off-pavement twisting into account when testing linkage-to-body
clearance and lever interference.
See 'Part 3'
for Moses Ludel's final tuning steps, including driveline, exhaust system and frame-and-alignment
details for this installation!
When working on your Jeep TJ or LJ Unlimited
Wrangler, refer to the factory (OE) Jeep® Service Manual for the
vehicle model year. Torque specifications, frame specifications, the wheel alignment specifications, driveline
torque specifications and suspension details—including torque settings and actual frame measurements—are available
in the Jeep® official workshop
manuals. I consider these manuals a "must" for any 4x4 shop or Jeep owner who is
serious about performing professional level work. See your Mopar™ or
Jeep® dealer for access to these manuals, available in paper-bound and CD
Copyright 2010 © Moses
Ludel...Enjoy this comprehensive, color-illustrated article and photography by Moses Ludel. The article is
available solely at the 4WD Mechanix
Magazine website and can be viewed here as often as you
like. If you wish to share the article with friends or professional colleagues, please refer them
to 4WD Mechanix
Magazine website: www.4WDmechanix.com. As copyrighted material, this article and the photography cannot be
copied or distributed in any other form.—Moses